Blindness in Dogs

Sad but true, blindness in dogs is one of the common problems afflicting many dogs. This permanent vision loss in dogs is associated with a range of dog health problems. While in certain cases the dogs may be blind from birth, in most cases, vision loss may happen over a period of time, so much so that even the dog owner may not be aware of it. This is because dogs have a remarkable sense of adaptability and can thus compensate for the vision loss with astounding ease. In case of acute or sudden onset of blindness, this adaptability may be slowed down. Here is a look at the causes, the symptoms, and the treatment for this blindness.

What Causes Blindness in Dogs
The causes of blindness may range from dog illnesses and diseases, to inherited causes or even to eye injuries. There are a number of diseases that can cause blindness in your dog. Here is a list of some of the common dog health problems that might result in blindness.

• Glaucoma
• Retinal inflammation and infection
• Retinal detachment
• Corneal disease
• Cataracts
• Anterior and posterior uveitis
• Optic nerve diseases
• Diseases affecting occipital cortex
• Injuries and eye tumors

It is observed that dogs suffering from diabetes mellitus, high blood pressure or Cushing's disease are increasingly prone to suffering from cataracts or the development of white opacity in the eye lens. An untreated eye infection or strokes are some dog eye problems that result in temporary or permanent blindness. Dogs in their old age may suffer from hazy vision or complete eye blindness. Certain diseases such as glaucoma and uveitis may be painful for the dogs and may thus necessitate an eye surgery.

In addition to these diseases it is observed that certain dog breeds are prone to suffering from eye disorders and blindness. For example retinal atrophy, a disease that causes the retina to deteriorate affects Collies, Poodles, Schnauzers and Cocker Spaniels more than the other breeds. Similarly, retinal dysplasia affects Labrador retrievers and beagles, thus resulting in the displacement of the retina and blindness in specific dog breeds.

Symptoms
The onset of blindness in dogs is difficult to point out as the other senses of the dog are acute enough to compensate for the blindness. However, you may need to watch out for symptoms or changes in dog behavior such as clumsiness and bumping into things, inability to locate the food bowl, startled easily, loss of interactive behavior and confusion in strange surroundings. Most of the time, the dog would be quite inattentive and just stay rooted to a spot. If the onset of the vision loss was a gradual one then most probably the dog would have no problems in adjusting to the familiar surroundings. However, in case of a sudden vision loss, dogs have less time to adapt and may therefore appear disoriented and confused. In such a case it is best to take your dog to a veterinarian for immediate treatment.

Treatment
For diagnosing the vision loss, veterinarians may recommend diagnostic procedures consisting of complete physical, neurological and ophthalmic examination. Other diagnostic tests include complete blood count, serum tests corneal and conjunctival cell samples and CAT or MRI scans. Based on the diagnosis the vet may address the cause of the disease and recommend effective treatment.

As a pet owner, it can be painful for you to know that your dog has been diagnosed with blindness. However, instead of panicking, you need to understand that you need to create an environment for your dog that is safe and congenial for it. Keep your home free from obstacles that might harm your dog and do not rearrange furniture or other objects in the house. Keep the verbal communication loud and clear and always speak to the dog when entering the room or petting it. Take extra care of the dog when there are stairs in the house. With all this love and extra care, blindness in dogs can soon be overcome and your pet dog will start leading a happy, normal life.

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Frequent Urination in Dogs

Urination problems are quite common in dogs and one such problem that most of the dog owners experience, is dog frequent urination. Normally dogs exhibiting frequent urination are accused of displaying dog's behavioral issues like separation anxiety or territory marking, whereas more often the root of the problem is associated with a health problem.

Dog's frequent urination can be a result of various factors like drinking excess water, change in weather, dog food or exercise routine, or certain infections. Frequent urination in dogs is usually a sign of illness which needs immediate medical attention.

Causes

Canine Urinary Tract Infections: Canine cystitis is a urinary tract infection (UTI) which is one of the most common cause of frequent urination where dogs are concerned, especially in females. The dog's bladder gets inflamed due to the infection, which causes the pet to urinate often. The infection usually affects the lower urinary tract by damaging the bladder wall or stimulating the nerve endings in the bladder or urethra, causing abnormal or painful urge to urinate. Basically the female dog's bladder is short and broader than the male dogs, which makes it more susceptible to bacterial infections that can eventually make way to the dog's bladder. Canine cystitis is also more common in young dogs due to weak immune system. Frequent and painful urination (dysuria), straining to urinate, bloody urine, licking genital area, etc. are some other symptoms that can be seen in dogs suffering canine cystitis.

Excessive Water Consumption: Too much water consumption specially during summer or after exercise is the most obvious reason for a dog to urinate more. Hence, increased thirst (polydipsia) and increased urination (polyuria) are two indicative of some kind of underlying health ailment that the dog may suffer.

Hormonal Imbalance: Quite common in older female dogs or spayed female dogs, hormonal imbalances or low estrogen levels affect the dog's kidney function and make it unable to concentrate urine properly which cause the dog to urinate more. If not treated in time, it may even cause serious health complications like dehydration in dogs.

Canine Bladder Stones: Canine bladder stones are another prime cause for frequent urination in dogs. These stones are formed by crystallization of high mineral levels in the urine due to low pH level in the urine or unhealthy eating habits. These stones can be of pea gravel size or as small as the size of a grain of sand.

Canine Diabetes: Just like humans, dogs are no exception and suffer with canine diabetes. To remove excess levels of sugar from blood dogs drink more water and so will urinate more than usual.

Cushing's Disease: Canine cushing's disease (too much production of adrenal hormone, particularly corticosteroids) is more common in older dogs and hence is usually misunderstood by pet owner as a sign of aging in their dog. Frequent urination due to excess water intake, hair loss, weight gain, lethargy, etc. are common symptoms of this disorder.

Treatment Options

The treatment primarily depends on the underlying cause, severity and duration of the condition. As a responsible owner the first thing you can do is to keep a track of any possible changes in your pet's diet or routine as this can be contributing factor for frequent urination. However, if you think any lifestyle change have not caused the dog to urinate more, look out for other illness symptoms that the dog may exhibit along with frequent urination. Before treating, the veterinarian may conduct urinalysis on the dog's urine sample and some blood tests. Make sure the urine sample is not older than four hours and is preferably refrigerated and placed in a sterile container. He may question about the dog's medical history and may ask to take some X-rays too as this will help him to diagnose the actual cause and prescribe necessary medications and therapies.

A healthy dog drinks about three or four cups of water per day for every 20 pounds of body weight. Hence, you can prevent your pet from drinking excess water by giving the dog measured amounts of water and ensure that the dog doesn't get water from a leaky faucet or toilet or anywhere else. Nowadays, many effective and safe homeopathic and herbal remedies for pets are available to treat this and other urinary and bladder problems. However, before referring to any treatment, it is recommended to consult the veterinarian to diagnose the cause and the overall dog's health.

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How Much should I Feed my Dog

'Woof, Woof'. With his tail wagging at 80 miles/hour, one look and you could guess Patchie is hungry. Patchie is our dear 3 years old pet. We got him as a pup loitering around the street and did not know what breed he actually was. Anyway, he was a bubbly little pup who grew up to be an active dog. But, I did not know how much to feed him. This is because I did not want to overfeed him or underfeed him. He is a healthy dog, and I always wanted him to stay healthy. After speaking to his veterinarian and doing a little research myself, I found out some answers.

Quantity of Food

Most of us dog owners, feed our pets commercial dog food. Each brand and type of dog food contains a different formulation and ingredients. Thus, it is not possible to understand the exact amount of dog food one should be feeding a dog. The best way to decide this is to understand certain parameters and adjust the amount. You should keep a watch on the dog's health after you begin feeding a particular dog food brand and amount. If you feel the dog has improved in health, continue with the same brand and quantity of food.

In Dog's Years
One of the main factors that influences the food quantity is its age. You need to remember a puppy tends to have higher metabolism rate than that of an adult dog. This is because a puppy is a growing dog and needs more nutrition to fulfill his growth and development needs. Adult dogs on the other hand, have reached their maximum size and developmental potential. Thus, they need enough food to maintain their average weight and nutritional level. If you own an old dog, you need to decrease the amount of food. Its metabolism rate has slowed down and do not need to be overfed. Just like a human senior needs to watch the amount they eat, a senior dog needs to watch his diet too.

Size Matters
Weight, one parameter that will help you understand whether you need to feed him more or less. How do you decide if your dog is a bit underweight? Well, you need to check the dog's rib. If you feel the ribs of the dog, this means he is underweight. You need to follow a general rule that will help you feed him food according to his weight. For example:

• 10 pounds dog - Feed one cup food per day
• 10 to 25 pounds - Feed him 1 to 2 cups per day
• 25 to 50 pounds - Feed him 3 cups to 5 cups per day
• 50 to 75 pounds - 5 to 8 cups per day

This formula works fine when you are feeding dry dog food to your dog. You need to adjust a bit, if you are feeding him canned food.

Get Ready for Exercise
After a nice walk down the park or a game of basketball, don't you feel a bit more hungry than usual? Yes? The same rule applies to your dog. If he is an active dog, who spends a lot of time running around the yard or plays with his dog toys, then you need to feed him more. This means slightly more than normal and not too much more. Or else you will turn him in a fat blob. If you dog takes it lightly, does not undertake a lot of physical activity, then you can feed him normal or slightly less than normal amount of food. This will prevent him from gaining those extra pounds that will be hard to shed, taking into consideration his low activity level.

You know the factors you need to take into consideration. Based on these parameters you need to decide how much you should feed him. If your dog comes under the ideal weight range, then feed him according to the recommended amount printed on the dog food label. If your dog weighs less, then feed him a little more. You can feed him to cup extra each day for about 4 weeks. If your dog weighs more than normal then feed him cup less than normal. When you find his body weight coming down to the normal range, adjust the amount and number of times fed per day.

If you are still having doubts, speak to your dog's veterinarian. He will be able to guide you correctly based on your dog's weight and health. Make sure you feed you dog only the best dog food on the market, to make him a healthy and happy dog.

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Good Dog Breeds for Apartment Living

One of my friends, she is crazy about dogs. She wanted to own a pet since I guess the time she was born! (Okay, I will chuck the exaggeration and come to the point!) The point I wanted to put forth was that she loved dogs and wanted one as a pet. But there was one teeny weeny problem. She stayed in an apartment. Most of us have a fair idea as to having a pet in an apartment is slightly uncomfortable. Thus, we set out to search which dog breeds could be suited in this scenario and here is what we found on good apartment dogs!

Good Dogs for Small Apartments

Bichon Frise: The French 'lap dog', bichon frise is surely one of the best choices amongst dogs suitable for apartment. They are cute, cuddly, look like soft toys with white fur and are full of mischief. This breed is normally healthy too.

Pug: Aha - the dog which follows you wherever you go! Yes, the quintessential and extremely popular pug is another good option if you want a dog in your apartment. Compact in size, known as the clowns of the canine, these dogs love to have people around them. That way they get to show off their funny antics!

Schnauzer: The standard and miniature schnauzer breeds are great to have in an apartment. With regular exercise and grooming, the members of this breed are ever ready to please and protect the house and the family.

Dachshund: Short legs, long bodies is what makes dachshunds perfect for an apartment. Be it a nice warm bed or a good walk in the park, dachshunds are fine with both. Moreover, they are alert, outgoing and strong willed, though stubborn!

Yorkshire Terrier: 'Yorkie' as this small dog breed is called has a lot of spunk and is generally calm. A Yorkshire terrier needs regular grooming and are affectionate, loyal and alert. These are really good apartment dogs.

Chihuahua: This miniature doggie certainly does not lack anything when it comes to personality and that is precisely which gives this breed a thumbs up for apartment life. Chihuahua dogs are faithful and protective and quite active. But beware of these small dogs going green with envy if you do not pay attention to them!

Italian Greyhound: It would not be wrong if I call the Italian Greyhound (IG) amongst the cutest of dog breeds. They are gentle, loving and intelligent. This small dog breed is mischievous too, which makes it a lot more fun to be with, even in an apartment.

Good Dogs for Large Apartments

Great Dane: As the name suggests, this breed is amongst the larger breeds good for having in an apartment. Just take them for a few walks and great danes would be happy to lounge in the house. They are friendly, loyal and are great companions.

Mastiff: One of the heaviest dog breeds, mastiffs are gentle giants. Calm and even tempered with low energy level is an apt description of this ideal family pet.

English Sheep Dog: Sort of uncommon, this English sheepdog requires a lot of grooming. However, these unique dogs are affectionate and apt for apartment life on account of low energy.

Saint Bernard: This is a well-known large dog breed and needs regular exercise and grooming. They are affectionate as well. They are close to Newfoundland and Malamute breeds and are suited well for an apartment set up.

Newfoundland: Close in size to a Saint Bernard, these are perfectly described as big teddy bears. Named after the place, they are adorable and are equally playful with children as well as adults. Read more on newfoundland dogs.

There are quite a few more in this list of good apartment dogs. These were just the ones topping the charts! It is all up to you, which ones to buy, according to your likes and convenience!

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Dairy Goat Breeds - Toggenburg, French Alpine and British Alpine

Toggenburg

There are several breeds of dairy goat. The Toggenburg, British Alpine and French Alpine are three that provide milk and cheese to thousands of people across the globe.

Like the Saanen, the attractive Toggenburg dairy goat originated in Switzerland. It takes its name from the Toggenburg Valley. It was the first goat breed to be officially recognised and is generally regarded as the oldest known dairy goat breed.

Of the Alpine breeds, the Toggenburg was the first to be imported into Britain with the first animals arriving in 1884. The British Toggenburg has been developed from the original through cross-breeding and selective breeding for specific characteristics. The Toggenburg is the most numerous goat breed in the United States. The first Toggenburg into Australia were imported by private breeders.

Toggenburgs are known for their long lactation periods, with the milk being of good quality and in very acceptable quantities. The milk has a fat content is usually between 3% and 4% although milk volume produced is less than the Saanen. They are a compact, hardy breed slightly smaller than other breeds from the Alpine regions. Does weight 55kg or more and bucks are somewhat larger. Toggenburgs are good converters of feed to milk.

Toggenburgs are regarded as a medium sized goat. The standard for Australian Toggenburgs is 79cm for does and 90cm for bucks. It is robust, active and well-proportioned. The body is large and deep. From the side it exhibits the wedge-shape that denotes a good milking animal. The thighs are thin and the hocks set wide apart, giving plenty of room for the udder. From the rear, the appearance is again wedge-shaped. They have a deep, wide udder, carried well under the body and attached well to the front and high up to the rear. It is round or globular in shape and the teats should be a comfortable size for milking, tapering slightly and pointing downwards. Once milked, the udder has a collapsed appearance.

The Toggenburg is well-boned and a free mover with strong, straight legs. The topline is straight, sloping off only slightly at the tail. They have a fine, neat head. The profile may be straight or slightly dished. The full, bright eyes are set wide apart and the muzzle and lips are broad. The long, slender neck flows into the shoulders without having a dip behind the neck. There may or may not be tassels and/or horns.

The skin is supple. Colour varies from shades of fawn and brown through to dark chocolate. There were white or cream stripes on the face from the eyes to the muzzle. There are also markings on the legs from the knees and hocks to the feet, also on the rump and tail. There may be white around the edges of the ears. With age, these markings can fade considerably. The hair is short to medium in length. It is soft and fine and lies flat on the body.

The coat of the male is longer and coarser. The facial stripes become less clear as the animal ages. Males may have longer hair on the face, shoulders and hind legs. He should be masculine in appearance and strong without being heavy-boned. As with Saanens, polled bucks should not be mated to polled ewes as the progeny are generally hermaphrodites or sterile males.

Toggenburgs are sociable and tend to stay in groups. They are easy to manage and no trouble to train to the routine of a milking shed and/or routine. They have excellent longevity.

Unlike the Anglo-Nubian, the breed is not suited to hot climates but prefer cooler or at least temperate regions. They make an ideal house goat and are happy under free range conditions.

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French Alpine

The Alpine breed splits into two types. The French Alpine and the Alpine Dairy goat are one and the same. This type found its way to the United States. They were more uniform, bigger and better producers than their predecessors which came from Switzerland. Today's French Alpine is a prolific milker.

The Alpine can be any colour as long as it is not all white. The patterns of the multi-coloured coats are described in various terms such as 'chamoisee', 'pied', 'cou blanc', 'cou noir' and others.

Generally the French Alpine is short-haired. Bucks have a fringe of longer hair along the middle of the back and a profuse beard. The profile should not be convex. The erect ears are of medium size and fine-textured. The udder is large and well-shaped. The teats are well-placed.

The Alpine is larger than some breeds, measuring 76cm to 101cm inches at the withers and weighing from 61 to 77kg depending on sex and age. It is a tough, adaptable breed, maintaining good production levels and thriving under all conditions and climates.

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British Alpine

In 1903, local British goats were crossed with Swiss Alpine goats. The result was the British Alpine which is tall and rangy.

Does measure 83cm at the shoulder and bucks about 95cm. The British Alpine is sometimes described as being like a Saanen in its build and like a Toggenburg in colouring.

They have an elegant air with the typical wedge shape of a good dairy goat. They are medium to heavy producers. The fat yield ranges between 3% and 4%. The face may be dished or straight. The British Alpine has good legs and feet. The udder is well attached and attached high at the back and well forward at the front. The skin should be dark coloured with good-sized teats. The males have good width across the front and rear.

Does generally have a short, fine coat but the bucks may have longer hair. It is sleek and black though some have a fine, grey undercoat. White markings on the body often fade as the animal ages. The breed standard specifies white stripes from the muzzle to above the eyes. There should be white from the knees and hocks down, under the tail, on the rump and on the edges and tips of the ears. There may or may not be horns and/or tassels. The chest is deep with good width between the front legs.

The head is long with bright, full eyes and erect, forward pointing ears. The neck is long and the withers high. The long, flat croup slopes from hip to tail. The pin-bones are wide and prominent. Does show a definite wedge-shape both from the side and from behind. Thin thighs give plenty of room for the udder. Teats should be well apart, pointing somewhat forward and down rather than outward.

In a mixed herd, British Alpines tend to seek out their own kind. They are good jumpers and are efficient foragers.

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Dog House Heater

Dogs have a metabolism that can keep them warm. Their natural body heat and furry body helps them stay clear of the winter cold, but only up to a certain temperature. Areas with extreme temperatures can be harmful for them. They need warmer kennels with protection from cold and snow. It is generally assumed that dogs with a furry body and long hair can stay warmer. However, that is not true. Long-haired dogs also need extra warmth. Their tolerance towards cold temperatures is the same. Leaving these faithful creatures out in the freezing temperatures can prove to be devastating for their health.

If you have a dog that is old, has been ill for a long period, or is recovering, a warm dog house is essential for its well-being. If not provided with a warm environment, these dogs can get terminally ill, or become perpetually sad. Some dogs, after long exposure to cold temperatures, do not regain their playfulness. A warm kennel can go a long way to keep your pet healthy, happy, and playful in these cold temperatures. There are various methods that can help to keep your dog's house warm.

Various TypesHeater Box/Furnace Box
A heater or a furnace box is a metal box that is fixed inside the dog kennel from the top or back of the kennel. It is placed in a manner that will not take up your dog's sleeping space. It is fitted from within with either a light bulb, or a ceramic plate that emits heat. This helps to heat up the dog house. The light bulb models will light up the kennel at night, making it difficult for your dog to fall asleep. Dog house heaters can cost anywhere between $65 to $120.

Many models require you to buy the basic product and then the required add-on. It is better to do your research online before doing any purchase. Many products are also available for online purchase. Earlier, models were unsafe as they would heat up the metal box a lot and cause burn problems. Newer models are available, which are cool to touch from inside the kennel as well as from the outside. The heater box can increase the temperature of the kennel by 40 F. If you require added heat for your dog, extra accessories need to be purchased.
Heated Kennel Mat
A heated kennel mat is a practical and easy approach to keep your pet warm in the winter. As the name suggests, it is a mat -- similar to a heating pad -- that can be placed inside the dog house. It is a hassle-free technique where all you need to do is lie the mat down on the foot of the kennel and it is ready to use. Most products have a cord that can be easily taken out from the rear side of the kennel and plugged in. You may need to use an extension cord if you do not have a plug switch nearby.

Although they are cheap in cost ($20 to $40), a few dog owners are hesitant to have mats in the dog house. Many dogs have a chewing habit, and owners are scared of their dogs chewing up the mat, or the cord. A solution for that can also be worked out. You can place the mat below the base of the kennel. This will keep the dog from chewing at it and yet keep it warm. However, take care that the pad is encased in plastic, or anything that is moisture-proof to protect it from the ground. For the cord, you can run it through a plastic pipe. For better protection, you can even bury the pipe in the ground. These mats are a good option for dog houses that are made up of plastic, wood, or metal.
Igloo Beds
Igloo beds are dog houses that are shaped like igloos. These dog houses are mostly made for indoor use. They are lined with warm wool and are washable. Some models are even available for outdoor use. In indoor as well as outdoor models, some have a heating pad that comes along with the igloo. These pads can be removed for ease in washing. Although the pads are waterproof by nature, the igloos cannot be washed with them.

These beds are costly and require buying a new dog house altogether, but they are a special treat for your dog. They look pretty and unique and can win you a lot of compliments. They cost around $80 to $120. Preference for heating accessories is higher in the market. However, these igloo beds are unlike the regular dog houses, and in one purchase, two issues are solved. The cost of the accessories is also almost as high as the igloo beds. This makes these beds a more viable choice.
Combo Units
The combo unit is a combination of a heater and an air conditioning unit. You can install this for your pet's house and forget about removing it throughout the year. It will keep your dog warm during the cold and prevent him from heatstroke during the summers. It also purifies and dehumidifies the air in the kennel. Also known as cooling systems, these units can also be used otherwise in tents and small park trailers.

Some models of these units have an automatic setting that will keep the temperature comfortable in any extreme. They usually have air filters that can be washed. The unit needs to be placed roughly two feet away from the dog house. It needs to have an inlet to the dog house for which two holes should be cut out from the dog house, too. You can avoid all the trouble by buying a dog house that is particularly designed for this purpose. The combo units cost roughly about $350 to $500.
Comparison Chart

Parameters	Heater Box	Kennel Mats	Igloo Beds	Combo Units
Cost	$65 to $120	$20 to $40	$80 to $120	$350 to $500
Consumption	120 - 150 watts	40 - 80 watts	50 - 90 watts	300 - 500 watts
Temperature Settings	Available	Unavailable	Unavailable	Available
Thermostat	Available	Available	Unavailable	Available
Warranty	One Year	One Year	One Year	One/Two Years
Aesthetic Points	2.5	3.5	5	2.5

Note.- The aesthetic points are given on a scale of 1 to 5, where 5 is the best.

Additional Tips Make sure your dog's house is elevated from the snow.
Turn the door of the dog house away from the wind.
Add a wind flap as a door. It will retain the inner warmth and keep away the cold, too.
Blankets get wet and slushy due to the snow. So, use hay, or straw.
Shovel out a path for your dog to walk around. You can even make a path leading to the house.
Keep loads of water ready for them to lap up.
Be sure to use plastic vessels instead of metal as metal may stick to their tongue.
If your dog is comfortable, get booties to protect his feet from frostbite.

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Horse Breeds of South America - The Criollo

Breeds Native to South America

The Criollo

South America has a number of indigenous breeds and one of these is the Criollo, the native horse of Uruguay, Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay. The breed has different names and slightly different traits according to its region. The Peruvian Paso, Paso Fino, Falabella and Mangalarga are other horse breeds endemic to South America.

The Argentinian Criollo is highly renowned for its stamina and hardiness. It is arguably the best endurance horse in the world after the Arabian and may even be a better mount over long distances and long time periods due to its low basal metabolism. In prolonged events over a week in length with no supplementary feeding, it is likely that the Criollo would prevail. The breed is very popular in its home countries.

The origins of the breed go back to Christopher Columbus and the conquistadores who brought Barb, Arabian and Andalusian horses to South America. Some were stolen, others escaped and eventually there were great numbers of feral horses roaming wild on the pampas. The sandy wastes of the inhospitable grasslands and natural selection resulted in a predominance of dun-coloured horses very resistant to disease and to environmental extremes. The criollo became very frugal, able to travel for days without reserves of food and water. It was, and still is, tough, resistant to great discomfort and a fast and hard worker.

Towards the end of the 19th century, the introduction of stallions from Europe and the United States saw the breed deteriorate. It lost its hardiness and resistance to disease and came close to extinction.

Since the beginning of the 20th century, it has again been subjected to rigid selection. One selection test, the 'La Marcha', requires the horse to cover 750km in 75 hours split into 14 days. No reserves of food and water are allowed. The horses can only eat grass along the way. They are required to carry 108kg for the duration of the trip.

The Stud Book was established in 1918. Other South American countries have their own versions of the Argentinian Criollo which may vary slightly in certain characteristics.

The overall impression is of a stocky, tough, primitive horse. It stands between 14hh and 15hh and may be any colour. The head is quite long and narrow with a straight or slightly convex profile. The muzzle is small and tight. The forehead is broad and the ears longish and close-set. The expression is alert. The neck is long and muscular and the chest broad and deep. The ribs are well-sprung. The mane and tail are full and the withers prominent. The back is short and straight. The croup is sloping as is the shoulder. The legs are solid with good bone and muscle structure. The joints and tendons are strong, the pasterns long. The hooves are well formed and robust.

The main colours are a primitive dun or mouse-brown, often with a dark cross-stripe over the withers and an eel stripe down the centre of the back. There may even be zebra stripes on the legs. Colours may include bay, brown, black, grey, palomino, roan, skewbald and piebald. White markings on the face and legs are allowed.

It is used extensively as a cattle horse. It is also considered a pleasure and trail horse. The Argentinian polo pony has an enviable reputation and is the result of crossing English thoroughbreds with Criollos.

One of the most famous exploits undertaken by Criollos was the journey of Aime Felix Tschiffley who rode from Buenos Aires to Washington DC. The journey of 10,000 miles took him three years. He passed through some of the continent's most difficult terrain. The horses were 15 and 16 years old before Tschiffley set out. The terrain included snow-capped mountains, the driest of deserts and thick tropical mountains. At the end of their journey, the horses were shipped back to Argentinia to the El Cardal Ranch, the breeding farm of the man most credited with developing the breed, Dr Emilio Solanet. The horses, Gato and Mancha, lived to 36 and 40 years old respectively.

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